Departures
Issue: January/February 2010
My oh Maya
Ancient traditions meet modern recreation at Guatemala's Lake Atitlan
Set in the shadow of three towering volcanoes at an elevation above 5,100 feet, the villages that ring Guatemala's Lake Atitlan offer a magical blend of Mayan culture and recreational water sports.
Home to 14,000 residents, a cluster of budget hotels and a semblance of nightlife, Panajachel, simply Pana to the locals, is the area's busiest town. Traje (traditional Mayan clothing), jewelry and locally crafted musical instruments leap from the markets along Calle Santander, while restaurants dish out mojarra — a local lake fish — by the plateful. Across the lake, San Pedro de la Laguna rises steeply from the ferry dock and offers kayak rentals, roadside markets and open-air cafés with stunning views. The cultural differences between San Pedro, one of only two Tzutujil-speaking villages on the lake, and neighboring towns are apparent from the traje worn in each. The vibrant colors and interwoven patterns worn by local residents are proud exclamations of their respective heritages.
Ride a shuttle boat, or panga, to the neighboring villages of Santiago and Santa Cruz, where activities include touring historic cathedrals, climbing lush green volcanoes, diving, or simply lying in hammocks listening to waves lap against the shore.
Our World in Numbers
11.8Length, in miles, of the Canada Line. The extension to the SkyTrain system links downtown Vancouver, B.C., to Vancouver International Airport and Richmond with transit service.
49.7Length, in miles, of new passing lanes added to the Sea to Sky Highway during its recently completed expansion.
5,500Projected number of athletes and team officials participating in the 2010 Winter Olympics.
12,000 Approximate number of people who will carry the Olympic flame during the 106-day torch relay through Canada.
28,000Approximate distance, in miles, that the torch will travel before it arrives at B.C. Place for the Opening Ceremonies.
3Projected worldwide television audience, in billions, expected to view the Games.
Notting Hill Noshes
A mix of cultures yields exotic fare
If you think that "British cuisine" is an oxymoron, think again. An influx of immigrants has introduced English taste buds to a rich variety of food from around the world, and Notting Hill is one of London's most popular melting pots.
In this funky multicultural neighborhood, you can practically circumnavigate the globe in terms of cuisine without walking more than 20 minutes in any direction. Persian? Check (Alounak restaurant). Portuguese? Indeed (Café O'Porto, Lisboa). Lebanese? Absolutely (Al Waha). Indian? Of course (Durbar, Urban Turban). Italian? Please! There are five Italian restaurants clustered within two blocks on Kensington Park Road (Essenza, Luna Rossa, Mediterraneo, Osteria Basilico, Rossopomodoro). Beyond the restaurants and shops that flank Portobello Road, whose very name conjures images of big meaty mushrooms, this appropriately clogged artery is the site of one of London's most famous markets. The Portobello Market lines the street with carts heaped with fresh fruits and vegetables Mondays through Saturdays, with limited hours on Thursdays. Go on Saturdays for the largest selection.
California's seaside charms converge in Half Moon Bay
Less than 25 miles southwest of San Francisco International Airport, rural Half Moon Bay offers the charms of California's Pacific Coast Highway — without the endless hairpin curves and fuel stops that come with longer drives along the famed seaside Highway 1.
With year-round kayak tours and rentals, Half Moon Bay Kayak Co. lets you get in the water, instead of just looking at it through a car window. Avoid the water at the Half Moon Bay Golf Links, where two distinct 18-hole courses provide scenery and challenges that rival those farther down the coast at Pebble Beach. Sample the coastal highway's amazing scenery along the 25-mile drive to Año Nuevo State Reserve, the largest mainland breeding colony in the world for northern elephant seals. Back in town, you can taste the freshest catches from nearby waters at such restaurants as Crab Landing and Sam's Chowder House.
All Aboard
Find the unseen in Portland's Cargo
In need of a life-size terra cotta pig? How about a Mexican folk-art cross with a likeness to Elvis? Cargo, in Portland's Pearl District, packs an astonishing array of cultural artifacts into a vast warehouse. Whimsy reigns here — you're likely to see a collection of antique Buddhas from Thailand next to hand-carved santos from Mexico. The owner, Patty Merrill, brings in container loads of goods from around the globe. "We mix old and new, local and imported," she says. "We look for the unusual. If we've never seen it before, we buy all of it." The shop is easy to spot: Look for the wild profusion of pompoms and lanterns sashaying at the entrance. (503) 209-8349, www.cargoinc.com.
Travel Smarts
Things to know about travel insurance
Though people often overlook travel insurance, the investment will seem like a bargain if unforeseen circumstances alter your plans. Here are examples of situations when it pays to consider insuring your trip:
When you’re booking tours, cruises, or other vacations that require advance payment: Trip cancellation and trip interruption insurance can reimburse you for nonrefundable prepaid travel expenses if you have to cancel or interrupt your trip.
When traveling in foreign countries: Your domestic health insurance policy probably won’t cover you overseas, so consider medical and medical evacuation coverage, which can reimburse you for medical expenses if you get sick or are injured during your trip or need to be evacuated.
When you or a traveling companion has a health or mobility condition: Travel assistance can include a 24-hour hotline you can call to find doctors in the place you’re visiting and to make arrangements in an emergency.
Before you sign, ask about exclusions. If you have a pre-existing medical condition, for example, ask if you’ll be covered. Policies that cover terrorism might apply only if there’s an incident at your destination within a certain time from your departure date. And buy insurance within 14 days of making your initial trip payment; just as you can’t buy flood insurance after the levy breaks, you can’t buy hurricane coverage once the storm is heading to your destination. You can buy travel insurance through your travel agent, who can recommend a good policy.
