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Four Seasons at Manele Bay.
Home page and above images by Michael Snow/Kumukai.com
Four Seasons at Manele Bay.

Destination: Lana’i

The humpbacks are arriving to the waters off this small Hawaiian island. When will you get here?

by James Minniear

If you find yourself in Hawaii and begin yearning for something simpler, take a trip over to the beautiful island of Lana'i. From Maui, it's as easy as hopping on the Expeditions Ferry that departs frequently out of Lahaina Harbor. During whale season (November through April), you will most likely be blessed with sightings of majestic humpback whales—the very whales whose shape inspired Lana'i's name. A 45-minute ride across the channel and you’ll be in the midst of tall lava rock faces peering down at the turquoise waters below, while the hills above climb to the sky as if they were on some sort of mission ... welcome to Lana'i.

Two main Four Seasons sister hotels anchor the island’s accommodations, Manele Bay and the Lodge at Koele. The Four Seasons at Manele Bay is located just above beautiful Hulopoe Beach and is a paradise in itself. The lobby's exquisite Japanese paintings and Hawaiian artifacts will undoubtedly envelope you in a whirlwind of elegance.

Take a stroll around the beautiful grounds and stop into one of the hotel's restaurants for a bite to eat. My girlfriend, Sarah, and I choose Hulopoe Court, named after the mesmerizing bay that it overlooks. With sea views, and a menu reflecting several islands' cuisine, this restaurant is nothing short of spectacular. Daring diners: Try the fried snapper served in its own cocoon. Sarah ordered the ribs and giggled with every bite.

One of the best things about Hawaii is waking up early, and Lana'i is no different. Eat some fresh fruit, sip some island coffee, and head down to the beach as the rays of sunshine are just starting to warm the waters of Hulopoe, also known as Manele Bay. Rent some snorkel gear and dive into this marine preserve for what may possibly be one of the best snorkeling experiences in all of the islands. This pristine bay is home to a large pod of spinner dolphins, so don't be surprised if you encounter these playful creatures.

After a vigorous morning of frolicking in the shorebreak, Sarah and I enjoyed a cliff-top, sea-view couple’s massage with some lomi lomi. The sounds of the waves crashing below and birds singing above soothed our souls as our bodies were ridden of any lingering stress knots.

If you decide to experience the countryside of Lana'i, there is a complimentary shuttle that runs between the two sister hotels. A 20-minute ride on the winding road along side of the pine-lined cliffs leads you to Lana'i City and, ultimately, to the Four Seasons Lodge at Koele. Set just outside of town, at the base of a dense and mystical forest, the Lodge sits in a world of its own. As soon as you walk through the front door, you immediately forget all preconceived notions of Hawaii. The lobby is similar to a New England country retreat but with ancient Hawaiian influence, and is also home to Hawaii's largest fireplaces, stretching from floor to ceiling. Beautiful antique furniture and century-old paintings make up the Lodge's tranquil charm. Paths behind the hotel lead to a beautiful indoor orchid garden.

For dining, the more casual Lodge Terrace is where you can indulge in a variety of meats and fish, as well as vegetables so fresh we expected them to have a pulse.

Make your way into the unique Lana'i City to explore where it all began. Nothing is open on Sundays, and the city even has its own siesta each afternoon for the locals to close up shop and spend time with their families. I ducked in to a little spot called Canoe's, where I indulged in a traditional Hawaiian breakfast of eggs, Portuguese sausage and island coffee, then strolled through town. One of my favorite spots is an art gallery that exhibits work from locals—everything from photographs and paintings to jewelry and clothing.

For a true dose of Lana'i's history, stop by the Lana'i Culture and Heritage Center. The people that oversee this small museum are incredibly friendly and eager to answer any questions. There are walls of photographs that reveal the history and progression of the island, from the ancient times when the island was thought to be possessed by ghosts, to the flourishing of Dole Pineapple and the many foreigners transported there for its new times.

As I made my way back down the winding road, I thought about how truly special Lana'i is. Home to some of the friendliest people I've ever met and soul inspiring sights and sounds—Lana'i is a place I will forever hold dear.    

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